France Suspends Shein’s Online Access Amid Controversy Over Dolls

The French government has initiated a procedure to suspend access to Shein’s online platform due to concerns over content that may violate French law. This decision follows the emergence of listings for sex dolls with childlike features on the fast-fashion retailer’s website. The announcement coincided with the opening of Shein’s first permanent store in Paris, located in the iconic BHV Marais department store.

March 2024 marked a significant moment for Shein as it attracted both eager shoppers and vocal protesters at the store launch. Demonstrators brandishing signs against the company briefly interrupted the opening, leading to their removal by security. The Finance Ministry did not provide details on whether the store’s physical presence would be affected by the online access suspension. A progress report is expected within 48 hours.

In a statement, Shein expressed its commitment to resolving the issues raised by French authorities, emphasizing its willingness to engage in dialogue. The French government holds the power to compel online platforms to remove illegal content, including child pornography, within a 24-hour timeframe. Failure to comply can result in internet service providers and search engines being mandated to block access to the site.

Frédéric Merlin, president of the Société des Grands Magasins, which owns the BHV Marais, commended the government’s actions. He noted that Shein had already taken steps to suspend its marketplace operations. “I am satisfied with this decision and I hope that, in the end, we will be able to stop selling illicit products on these marketplaces,” Merlin stated.

The backlash against Shein’s entry into the French market extended beyond the recent controversy. Environmental groups, the Paris City Hall, and the French ready-to-wear industry had previously criticized the retailer for its sustainability practices. Earlier this week, Shein announced the banning of all sex doll products and the temporary removal of its adult products category while it conducts a review. The company has also launched an investigation into how the controversial listings were allowed on its platform.

Protests surrounding the store opening included an online petition that garnered over 120,000 signatures. Despite the controversies, many shoppers flocked to the store. Paris resident Ticia Ones, a regular Shein customer, highlighted the appeal of experiencing products in person. “We can see what we order, touch the items, it’s a good thing,” she remarked. Ones acknowledged that the brand’s low prices play a significant role in attracting customers, despite ongoing concerns about its practices.

The Société des Grands Magasins condemned the sale of the sex dolls but also recognized Shein’s rapid response to mitigate the situation. The BHV Marais has faced financial difficulties in recent years, and the SGM believes Shein’s presence could help rejuvenate business, even as some brands have opted to withdraw from the store in protest. Karl-Stéphane Cottendin, chief operating officer of SGM, expressed confidence in Shein’s efforts to improve its practices.

Founded in China in 2012 and now based in Singapore, Shein has rapidly expanded into a global fast-fashion powerhouse. The retailer has faced scrutiny over its supply chains, particularly concerning allegations of forced labor linked to the Uyghur population in China’s Xinjiang region. Cottendin dismissed these concerns, asserting that Shein has made significant improvements in its production processes.

Fast fashion, characterized by its rapid turnover of collections at low prices, poses environmental and social challenges. The United Nations has reported that the textile industry accounts for nearly 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions. France is currently taking steps to counteract the influence of Southeast Asian retailers like Shein, Temu, and AliExpress. A draft law aimed at addressing fast fashion includes measures such as consumer awareness campaigns, advertising restrictions, taxes on small imported parcels, and stricter waste management guidelines. Earlier this year, the Senate approved this proposal, and the government is preparing to finalize the text with the European Commission.

Thibaut Ledunois, director of entrepreneurship and innovation at the French federation of women’s ready-to-wear, expressed concern over Shein’s expanding presence in the country. “It’s a black day for our industry,” he stated, criticizing the retailer’s impact on local markets. As France navigates the complexities of fast fashion, the government’s actions against Shein reflect broader efforts to address ethical and environmental issues within the industry.